Leg 9—Halifax to Québec City: May 5 & 6, 2006

VIA Rail’s Atlantic Canada: Train 15, named Ocean reverses the route as in leg 8, except when I arrive in Charny, I transfer to a van that takes me to Québec City—only a few minutes from Charny. I can understand the name, Ocean, for this route: There is water, water everywhere.

May 6: Today the sun is shining—unbelievable. It has been a few days since the sun peeked from behind the clouds. The natives say that it is a warm day. They have a different perspective of warmth than this Arizona boy. I see people wearing shorts and I’m wearing long pants, two shirts and a jacket. One gentleman said, “It’s warm today.” I said, “Where?” We chuckle, and I tell him that I am from Arizona. He says, “I bet this weather is cold for you.”

All announcements on the VIA speaker are given in French and English. My laptop computer battery or the LED screen gives out on this leg, I think. I now write in long hand.

From what I am told, Québec City is nice. The cabbie taking me from the B&B to the train station says that it is an interesting city with lots of charm. I will detrain in Charny and catch a van into Québec City. It costs me $9.20 (CAD) extra plus $6.00 (CAD) for a cab ride to the B&B in Québec City.

I stay at the Maison Historique James Thompson bed and breakfast. The B&B is one and one-half blocks from Rue-Saint Jean, which runs through the heart of Old Québec. “One of the city’s five best street,” says VIA’s Magazine, Destinations.

Maison Historique James Thompson: It’s six o’clock in the morning on Saturday, May 6. The van that picks me up at Charny brings me to the B&B. As far as I know, no one is awake. I wait on the front porch until I hear movement.

The B&B is a “classified Historic Monument” built in 1793 and is furnished with many antiques. While waiting, I take pictures of the old and historic neighborhood with hills all around me. Nearing seventy years of age, I don’t want to take a walk yet because of the hills. I want to save my energy for later. And I am afraid I will miss movement in the B&B.

At 7:15 a.m., Greg, the host, opens the door to take trash out to the curb. I tell him that I previously told his wife that I wanted to drop my bags off and be on my way to do my thing. He thanked me for not ringing the door bell and waking up the guests. He puts the bags in the parlor, brings out several maps, and explains the city to me.

I have leisure time before my tour with Quebec City Tours at 10:00 a.m. so I head for Saint Jean Street, the entrance to the heart of Old Quebec, “One of the city’s five best streets,” say VIA’s magazine. The street is down a steep hill. I will need to leave plenty of time to climb the hill before the tour begins. Greg suggested I have breakfast at Casse-Crépe Breton. The restaurant is famous for its crépes. The crépes were something to behold, large and tasty.

I located an Internet café on Saint Jean Street and checked my email.

I return to the B&B before 10:00 a.m. to catch the tour. For the second time, I am fortunate to be the only guest on the tour. Just like Fenway Park, I get my own private tour. The tour guide, André Roy, is comical but educational. The tour lasts two hours.

André says that the city was founded in 1608 by Samuel de Champlain. The city has a rich history, architecture and culture. It can be toured on foot. But because the city is hilly, I take the tour with André Roy.

The Old City is one of the most popular areas for both tourists and locals with many restaurants, pubs, hotels and boutiques. St-Jean Street is the main entrance to the Old City. This street is at the heart of the social and cultural life of the city.

Quebec City was the capital of Canada from 1859 to 1865. After the Province of Canada was formed, the capital moved to Kingston and Montreal. When the Dominion of Canada was formed in 1867, the capital was moved to Ottawa. The Quebec Conference on Canadian Confederation was held here.

Sometimes called "the Gibraltar of America," Quebec Citadel is a fort located on Cap-aux-Diamants, overlooking the St Lawrence River. Manned to this day by traditionally-dressed troops who perform the changing of the guard every summer day at 10am, the Citadel also offers a museum of Quebec's military history and the story of the Royal 22nd Regiment. Unfortunately, I was unable to see the changing of the guard.

In World War II, two conferences were held in Quebec City. The first one was held in 1943 with Franklin Delano Roosevelt (the United States' president), Winston Churchill (the United Kingdom's prime minister), William Lyon Mackenzie King (Canada's prime minister) and T.V. Soong (China's minister of foreign affairs). The second one was held in 1944, and was attended by Churchill and Roosevelt. The meetings took place in the buildings of the Citadel and of nearby Château Frontenac.

Standing high on a bluff overlooking the St. Lawrence River is the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, located in the heart of Old Québec. It is the heart of Old Québec. The hotel can be seen from most vantage points in Québec.

André drops me off at St-Jean Street, where I have lunch at Café Bruyere. The sun is shining but it is still cold to me. Everyone says, “What a beautiful day!” Many of the customers are sitting on the patio absorbing the sun, but I ask for an inside table. I have a soup and salad

When I return to the B&B, I chatted awhile with Guitta, Greg’s wife. Since I am interested in buying a B&B, I had many questions. We had a long discussion. Her mother and father own one in town, also. She said that she enjoys being a proprietor of a B&B. She enjoys talking with guests, and they want to take a break, they can block-off days.

Greg suggests that I have dinner across the street from the B&B. The restaurant is called Saint-Amour. For dinner, I have a few refreshments and for my entrée, Bison—tender and delicious.

My train leaves early on May 7, so I have to forego breakfast. Greg packs me a bag lunch. He packs two egg salad sandwiches, bottle water, bottle of orange juice, Pringles, three kinds of pastry, Chiclets. This bag was good enough for breakfast and lunch.

Greg and Guitta are nice people. I recommend staying here. The B&B is comfortable and the beds are perfect for a good nights sleep.

The cradle of French civilization in North America, Quebec City is preparing to celebrate its 400th anniversary in 2008. Quebec is a must-see return trip.